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GroovyDude Blog

Replicating Fender's "no - load" tone pot.

Here's a cool and easy little mod you can easily do youself.  I found this online awhile back, tried it, and thought I'd post it here.

Myself, I do use the tone control on my guitar.  Potetiometers are simply variable resistors.  They contain a wafer which has carbon deposited on it, and when the knob is turned, a wiper drags across the surface and varies the resitance.  The closer to 10 on the knob, the less resistance.  However, even at maximum, there is still some resistance.  The lower the pot value, the more the load.  This translates to a reduction of signal that makes it to your amp, and a reduction in the higher frequencies.  The tone knob is the bigger culprit since it has anywhere from a 0.020 to a 0.100 microfarad cap attached and going to ground.  And even when the control is a '10', it is never completely out of the circuit.

For some, the solution is simply clipping the wires to the tone pot, rendering it useless.  Then Fender came out with their "no - load" tone pot, which works great, but is only available in 250k (I prefer 500k), and it clicks when the pot is turned to ten.  Once it clicks, it is removed completely from the circuit.  It works because once it clicks, the wiper is removed from the carbon contact, which forces the signal to go straight from the volume control to the output jack.  It works great, but I like to do swells with my tone in kind of a faux-wah sound, so the clicking action didn't work for me.

So the solution for me is to take apart the tone pot and remove the carbon from the wafer where the wiper would be at it's maximum setting.  See below:

Tone pot installed (the one closest to the jack).
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Sorry about the flash, but you can see the wires removed, and it was only necessary to remove one side of the capacitor.
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I used needle nose pliers to lift up the tabs on the side of the pot
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Disassembled pot.  Make note of how it went together, of course.  The part we're concerned with is the wafer, which has cap attached.  The carbon deposit which generates the resistance is the black circular area which joins the outside two lugs.
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I used an exacto knife and a needle file to remove a very small amount of the carbon deposit.  Now the wiper will not make contact with any of the carbon when set at the maximum position.  This will open the connection, causing the pot to be completely removed from the circuit.
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Reassemble and reinstall.  It you have some tuner cleaner, shoot a bit of that in there to clean out any stray bits of carbon and relubricate the pot, and enjoy the extra bit of gain and high end that was previously not there!
Published Sunday, April 27, 2008 2:57 PM by GroovyDude

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